What the 2025 Michelin Guide France Says About the Michelin Guides

A Conservative Selection at the Top

This year’s awards show a notably conservative approach at the highest level. Christopher Coutanceau’s return to three-star status represents an unprecedented reversal by Michelin, which rarely reconsiders its downgrades. What’s particularly striking is that Coutanceau hasn’t fundamentally changed his culinary offering since 2020, raising questions about the consistency of Michelin’s evaluation process. Meanwhile, Hugo Roellinger’s elevation appears to some observers as a dynastic succession in an already legendary establishment. While both chefs undoubtedly possess remarkable talent, their selection reinforces established figures rather than highlighting surprising newcomers.

The Two-Star Rush: Speed Over Consistency?

Perhaps most concerning is the accelerated pace at which some restaurants are receiving their second star. Establishments like Rozó, Maison Nouvelle, and Sushi Yoshinaga have jumped to two stars with unprecedented speed, sometimes just a year after receiving their first.

This rapid ascension creates a jarring disconnect with other respected culinary authorities. Many of Michelin’s new two-star restaurants are rated just 14 or 15/20 by Gault&Millau, where historically, two Michelin stars would correlate with scores of 16- 19/20. This suggests either a significant lowering of standards or a fundamental shift in evaluation criteria.

The result is a fragmentation of culinary criticism in France, with each institution developing its own independent framework with little consensus among them—leaving diners increasingly confused about what constitutes excellence.

Green Stars: Substance or Symbol?

The expansion to 100 restaurants with the “green star” designation for sustainability represents progress on paper. However, the criteria remain frustratingly vague. Do these stars reward local sourcing, zero-waste practices, vegetarian offerings, or some combination? Without transparent standards, the designation risks becoming more symbolic than substantive.

Special Awards as Consolation Prizes

Some special category awards appear to function as consolation prizes for establishments that didn’t receive an expected star upgrade. The “Young Chef” award, bestowed upon Valentina Giacobbe, highlights a promising talent who also happens to be young, female, and foreign—a photogenic profile perfectly aligned with Michelin’s 2025 public relations strategy.

Star Inflation Threatens Exclusivity

The statistics reveal a troubling trend: 542 restaurants now hold one star, while only 396 have the more accessible Bib Gourmand designation. This inversion suggests Michelin may be creating an artificial “mid-range starred” category.

With first stars being awarded at a pace exceeding the growth of France’s fine dining customer base, the once-momentous achievement of earning a Michelin star risks becoming merely a checkbox rather than a career-defining milestone.

The Transformation of Michelin’s Voice

The Guide’s communication style has evolved dramatically from its traditionally terse, technical assessments to emotional pronouncements like “Thank you chefs, you’re doing good for the world” and “This year has been more emotional than others.” This shift toward emotional storytelling coincides with the rise of social media, livestreams, and event partnerships, suggesting a guide increasingly focused on media presence.

Conclusion: Evolution Under Pressure

While the Guide appears to be making efforts to become more inclusive, regionally diverse, and responsive to emerging talent, these changes come with significant trade-offs. By yielding to speed, storytelling, and media pressure, Michelin risks undermining its foundational strengths: rigor, consistency, and credibility.

The question remains whether this evolution represents a necessary adaptation to changing times or a concerning dilution of what once made the Michelin Guide the unquestioned authority in gastronomy.