Real Restaurant Guide: Madrid
Madrid is a city that eats with its whole heart. It wasn’t always like this. For years, the Spanish capital was overshadowed by Barcelona’s swagger and San Sebastián’s culinary precision, a place where bureaucrats dined on roast lamb and tourists stuck to their paella comfort zones. But in the last two decades, Madrid has found its groove, transforming itself into a bona fide food mecca, a city that can hold its own against the gastronomic powerhouses of Paris and Rome.
Here, the old and the new collide with unapologetic energy. The asadors still churn out suckling pigs kissed by fire, and the marisquerías hum with the briny symphony of Galicia’s finest shellfish. But alongside these classics, you’ll find a new generation of chefs rewriting the rules, tapping into the avant-garde spirit that redefined Spanish cuisine in the first place. The tapas bars remain the city’s beating heart, but the heartbeat now pulses with influences from every corner of the world: Foreign cuisines find fertile ground here too, adding unexpected accents to the city’s ever-expanding repertoire.
To navigate this labyrinth of flavors, we turn to Rogelio Enriquez, a man who knows Madrid’s kitchens better than most know their own homes. As president of the Academia Madrileña de Gastronomía, Rogelio has tasted his way through the city’s most celebrated dining rooms and hidden gems, making him the ultimate guide to the city’s ever-evolving culinary landscape.
Madrid, like its food, is dynamic, daring, and impossible to forget.
Besim Hatinoglu
Robert Brown
Rogelio Enriquez’s restaurant recommendations from Madrid:
BARRERA
The quintessential casa de comidas. Ana Barrera does it all—cooking, serving, tallying the bill, and welcoming you with the warmth of a true host, making you feel like a guest in her home. There’s no menu; instead, Ana recites the day’s offerings and guides you through her choices. Expect hearty dishes like patatas revolconas con torreznos, tangy escabeches, crispy deep-fried hake, and an impressive selection of offal—kidneys, brains, liver—all prepared with care. And don’t miss the standout: the finest kid goat in town. No pretensions here, just bold flavors and a distinct touch of feminine culinary artistry.
LA PIPERNA
This is no ordinary Italian restaurant abroad. Nello de Biase and Victoria infuse their personal touch into Italian cuisine, thoughtfully crafted with the finest Spanish ingredients. Dishes like spaghetti with sea urchins, coniglio alla schitana, and farro with red prawns showcase their creative flair. The experience is elevated further with a curated selection of unexpected wines from across Italy, adding a delightful twist to every visit.
SANTERRA
A paradise for game enthusiasts during the season, Miguel Carretero masterfully channels hearty Castilian flavors, particularly in the cooler months of fall and winter. His croquetas are unmatched, as are his patatas bravas, but the true stars of the menu are his bold, rustic dishes: tender beans with quail, tangy partridge escabeche, rich hare morcilla, and the soulful dove soup. A culinary experience that celebrates the essence of Castilian tradition.
LA BUENA VIDA
Another gem of a bistro, helmed by the talented duo Carlos Torres and Elisa Rodriguez, who take pride in sourcing the finest seasonal ingredients and crafting dishes with exceptional skill. Here, you won’t find vacuum-sealed or reheated meals—just honest cooking with pans and slow-simmered stews. Their impressive wine list perfectly complements the menu. In season, expect expertly prepared game dishes, freshly caught fish from the Galician coasts, vibrant vegetables from Basque orchards, and an array of mushrooms. A true haven for discerning food lovers.
EL PEDRUSCO DE ALDEACORVO
A contemporary twist on the traditional Castilian asador. Their roasted lamb and suckling pig are standout highlights, perfectly executed with a nod to tradition. Equally impressive are their torreznos, oven-finished paella-style rice, hearty cocido, mushrooms, and seasonal vegetables. It’s the perfect spot to savor classic flavors reimagined with modern finesse.
HORCHER
The timeless culinary traditions of Central Europe are alive and flourishing in Madrid. This establishment is a living conservatory of refined heritage and impeccable service, complete with tuxedo-clad waiters, elegant serving stations, and classic Old World decor. Signature dishes like partridge à la presse, consommé Don Victor, Hungarian goulash, hare à la royale, and venison Stroganoff make it a destination for those who appreciate the art of traditional European dining.
SA MARINADA
The finest flavors of the northern Catalonian coast, now in the heart of Madrid. Joan and his family have transported the culinary traditions of Empordà to the city, showcasing treasures like Palamós prawns, espardenyes from the Roses Gulf, L’Escala anchovies, and razor clams from the Delta del Ebre. Each dish is a celebration of coastal Catalonian cuisine, prepared with skill and reverence for the region's exceptional ingredients.
DIVERXO
Undoubtedly the best restaurant in town. Dabiz Muñoz's cooking is a masterclass in complexity, seamlessly blending diverse influences while delivering bold, unforgettable flavors. Every dish is meticulously crafted, with each element serving a purpose and harmonizing flawlessly—a true rollercoaster of taste and sensation that leaves a lasting impression.
BASCOAT
Traditional Basque cuisine reimagined with a modern flair by the talented duo Rodrigo and Nagore. Their restaurant pays homage to Basque ingredients and traditions while incorporating a contemporary, international touch. Dishes like turbot or sole, squid with pig trotters, and their inventive take on the classic Gilda showcase their creativity and respect for the region’s rich culinary heritage.
VELASCO ABELLA
Oscar Velasco and Montse Abellá, former chefs of the renowned Santceloni, have embarked on their own culinary journey, crafting a restaurant that celebrates traditional Catalonian haute cuisine with a contemporary edge. Drawing inspiration from their mentor, Santi Santamaria, they present dishes that are both refined and evocative. Highlights include red mullet with saffron, chicken wings paired with lobster, and white prawns served with a perfectly fried egg—all within the understated elegance of a minimalist bistro.
OSA
The most exciting new opening in town. Jorge and Sara have crafted a unique culinary style in their charming riverside house, blending traditional recipes with Japanese sensibility, French technique, and Spanish soul. Their menu features homemade galantine, blood puddings, and sausages alongside inventive dishes like red mullet in tempura, aged game cuts, and chickpeas with zampone or tête de veau. Paired with an impressive wine list, it’s a dining experience that seamlessly merges tradition with innovation.
LANA
The finest meat asador in town, expertly run by two Argentinian brothers who bring the art of Argentinian grilling to the best Spanish products. Expect perfectly grilled aged steaks, chinchulines, blood sausage, and sweetbreads, all executed with precision and skill. The experience is elevated by an exceptional wine list featuring top Argentinian labels, making it a must-visit for meat and wine lovers alike.
PABÚ
A distinctly Madrileñian tribute to vegetables, inspired by the philosophy of Alain Passard. Coco Montes has developed a thoughtful and refined style, showcasing the best of seasonal produce and poultry in a daily-changing menu. With its delicate balance of creativity and sensitivity, this restaurant offers an inspiring approach to vegetable-centric cuisine.
SACHA
Sacha is the paradigmatic Madrileñian bistro. Sacha Hormaechea, the owner, is a real character. If you want to feel the vibes of the city, this is the place. His fake lasagna of txangurro (spider crab), his lazy omelet, the lobster salpicón, and the bone marrow are timeless classic dishes.
Lights & Shadows
Sacha 🔥 🔥 perfect vibes, perfect food